• Turn over your vegetable garden and add humus, mushroom compost or manure to enrich the soil. Apply Bonide Fruit Tree Spray as buds swell and again at petal drop to all fruit trees.
• Fertilize perennials with Dr. Earth Rose & Flower Fertilizer.
• Continue spring cleanup. Completely remove winter mulch. Cultivate to remove winter weeds and debris from the planting beds, then edge. Prepare your annual beds, and mulch landscape beds with shredded mulch, bark chips or gravel. Apply Preen or Corn Gluten and scratch it in to prevent future weeds, or try the new Preen Mulch Plus which combines mulch and Preen and prevents weeds for up to 6 months.
• Plant and transplant trees and shrubs, including roses, ground covers, and perennials (including hardy lilies and lily-of-the-valley).
• Seed or sod new lawns. Reseed bare spots in established lawns. Keep the area moist until seedlings appear, then mow when the new grass is 3” high.
• Put down a second application of Team or Tupersan (newly seeded lawns) for pre-emergent goosegrass control and control of crabgrass the rest of the year.
• Transplant cool-season seedlings into the garden. When the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees, sow warm- and cool-season vegetable and herb seeds.
• Dig and divide crowded spring bulbs after they have finished blooming. Enrich the soil with compost, manure or Espoma Bulb-Tone.
• Prune forsythia and other spring-flowering trees and shrubs after the flowers fall.
• Place gro-thru sets and link stakes over or around peonies, grasses or any other perennials in need of support.
• Check arborvitae, cedar, juniper spruce and pine for bagworms. Hand-pick bags from the host and spray with Ortho Systemic Insecticide.
• Begin summer rose care program of deadheading, spraying and watering.
• Fertilize roses with Bayer All In One Rose and Flower Care or Dr Earth Rose and Flower Fertilizer, azaleas with Espoma Holly-Tone or Dr Earth Azalea/Camelia Fertilizer, and fruit trees with Dr Earth Tomato and Vegetable Fertilizer.
• Deadhead bulbs, but leave foliage to mature and yellow before removing. This will help nourish the bulb for next year’s flowering. Fertilize with Dr Earth Bulb Fertilizer.
• Prune new growth on needled evergreens.
• Dig and divide early blooming perennials after flowering.
• Apply Encap Fast Acting Iron Plus or Bonide Liquid Iron Plus to azaleas, hollies, junipers, laurel, pines, rhododendron and spruce to provide iron for chlorophyll production by foliage.
• Fertilize container plants and window boxes weekly with a Master Nursery Bud and Bloom Plant Food, or use Dynamite All Purpose Plant Food for season-long feeding, to promote healthy, vigorous plants all summer.
• Pay close attention to the watering needs of these plants as well as hanging baskets, because they tend to dry out quickly on hot summer days.
• Check plants for spider mite damage and treat with Bayer 3 in 1 Insect, Disease and Mite Control then alternate every 7-10 days with Bonide All-Season Oil Spray.

Spider mites are one of the most common pests in landscapes and gardens and feed on many fruit trees, vines, berries, vegetables, and ornamental plants. These tiny mites are just large enough to be seen with the naked eye, but may just look like tiny, moving dots.

Spider mites cause damage by sucking cell fluids from plant leaves. A small number of mites usually isn’t a reason for concern, but plants can sustain heavy damage if populations are high and continue unchecked. You may notice a stippling of light or yellowish spots on affected leaves and often the webbing of mites can be seen on leaves and stems.

Spider mites reproduce rapidly in hot, dry weather. Keeping plants well watered is a good deterrent. There are also many natural enemies, such as lacewing larvae and some lady beetles that help to keep mite populations under control. Be careful when using broad spectrum insecticides as these will kill any beneficial insects as well as the spider mites. Simply spraying plant leaves with a blast of water, taking care to spray the undersides as well, can help to reduce mite populations and insecticidal soaps are a good choice when dealing with spider mites.

Have you noticed little black gnats flying around your houseplants or outdoor potted plants? These are probably fungus gnats. These can be a serious problem in commercial greenhouses holding thousands of plants but are easily controlled by homeowners.

As weak fliers, fungus gnats live in and around damp decaying material. Plants with fungus gnats are usually being overwatered. This is the primary cause for an increase in the gnat population. Letting a plant become drier between watering will decrease the decay and fungus in the soil. Therefore, the gnats will die. Always make sure that your pots have adequate drainage and that water is not left standing in saucers.

For home use, yellow sticky traps or insecticidal sprays with Pyrethrins are available. Both methods are used for killing the gnat. If treating a houseplant with Pyrethrins, be sure to take plants outside and follow label instructions. Although it is produced from plants, it can be harmful to pets. Bacillus thuringiensis (BT), a biological control, will also provide relatively fast control killing the larva in the soil.

For houseplants, the easiest and fastest remedy is the best. Repot the plant using new potting soil into a pot with drainage. Be sure the hole is not clogged. Prune away any dead roots, leaves and stems. The gnats will be gone immediately. In the future, use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil before watering.

The number of soil amendments sold in garden centers often confuses gardeners. These products fall into two categories, inorganic and organic. Inorganic amendments come from non-living materials such as sand, perlite, vermiculite and crushed stone. With the exception of limestone and gypsum, used to increase soil calcium, these are not commonly used in the garden.

However, organic amendments are the opposite. They come from previously living materials such as peat, manures and composts. When leaves, bark, peat and animal wastes are mixed together to decompose, compost or “humus” is the final product. Very commonly used, these materials enrich the soil by increasing the air spaces, improving the absorption of nutrients and increasing overall fertility.

Excellent soil is not common around most homes. Even if it was, house construction often removes the good soil and construction equipment compacts the remaining soil. Adding organics loosens compacted soil and results in better gardens. Incorporate organics into the beds throughout the year by working evergreen needles, leaves, and lawn clippings into the soil. Amendments such as peat or lime can improve a pH problem, if one exists. Calcium and magnesium deficiencies can be corrected using organic materials such as bone meal or wood ashes, or inorganic materials such as limestone, gypsum, or soft rock phosphate.

Mulching is another simple way to add biodegradable materials to the soil. Simply place mulch around the plant, leaving several inches from the stem. In addition to slowly providing nutrients as it decomposes, mulching is attractive, reduces weeds and erosion, maintains soil temperature, and prevents “crusting” that occurs when soil becomes too dry.

Another advantage of adding organics is the attraction of worms. They further assist in the decomposition, increase aeration, and leave worm castings. A healthy garden is home to many worms. And it all starts with adding organic soil amendments.

Edging and trimming the lawn is like having a manicure after cutting your fingernails…everything is just more perfect!

What’s the difference between edging and trimming?

“Edging” defines the line between a hard surface (sidewalks, driveways and curbing) and a growing area such as a flower bed or lawn. To achieve this, a vertical cut is made between the two using a spade or edging tool. Some have mastered the art of using the string trimmer to do this.

“Trimming” removes the grass, weeds and other plants from areas a lawnmower can’t reach. Long wisps of grass along the side of the house, fence or other structure aren’t very attractive. Most people use a string-trimmer. Hand shears also do the job.

How often should trimming and edging be done? This depends upon your own personality. Some feel edging and trimming is a requirement of every mowing. Others (probably the majority) do edging and trimming every third or fourth time they mow.

And some do it because they enjoy it!

Rejoice! You no longer need hedgerows, trellises or complicated stakes to grow raspberries. You won’t need armor-like gloves either. Now you may grow thornless raspberries in your garden or in containers on your patio, deck or front porch.

Raspberry Shortcake™ is the first truly dwarf raspberry. Growing 2 ½ to 3’ tall, it is covered with full-sized sweet raspberries from mid-summer through fall. Deciduous in the winter, it produces new canes in the spring to bear more fruit. It is self-fertile, but its size, appearance and juicy berries are too good to plant just one.

Well-drained rich soil produces the best fruit. If planting in a container, be sure to use a potting mix for containers. Water regularly. A well-balanced fertilizer in early spring and summer increases plant vigor and production.

Pruning is simple, just remove the oldest canes after fruiting and enjoy the fruits on the new ones in spring. So simple and safe, even children can grow and harvest!

Many of us love mint. With many different flavors of mint available at garden centers, it is easy to want to plant one of each. Planning ahead makes this possible to do, but lack of planning may have you tearing them all out.

Mint grows as a groundcover. The underground runners spread quickly and are difficult to remove if containment is desired. In other words, mint is often considered invasive. Planting in pots placed into the ground prevents its escape. Attractive in barrels or pots by the kitchen, mint leaves and flowers can be easily available for cooking or beverages.

To prevent plants from looking rangy, frequently cut or pinch back new growth. Pinching off the flower buds produces more lush leaves and fuller plants.

Mints grow well in sun or part shade, preferring well-drained but moist soil. Although not particular about soil type, enriching clay soil with compost will improve the overall plant appearance and taste.

Most mints grow 18” to 30” tall. Plant at least 2’ apart to prevent cross-pollination of different varieties. As a perennial, the plant may disappear in the winter, but will return in spring to be ready for those mint juleps.

Ornamental grasses can reduce your watering costs, lessen your mowing time and increase the interest level of your garden. No matter what your garden’s needs, there’s a grass to solve it. From short ground covers to tall bamboo, there’s something for every site.

Generally defined as “a plant with narrow upright leaves growing from the base,” grasses come in different sizes, shapes, colors and with differing growing requirements. When choosing an ornamental grass for your site, consider the following:

Size

Some grasses are just inches tall. Others, such as bamboo, grow 20′+ tall. A shorter grass is a perfect edge for a walkway. A taller grass provides screening or background height.

Deciduous or Evergreen

The winter form of a grass can be very different from its summer form. Evergreen grasses do not die back in the winter, their form remains the same. Winter colors may change and provide interest. Deciduous grasses die back or lean over. Consider the plant’s use when choosing between deciduous and evergreen. If using a grass as a screen, deciduous may not be a good idea.

Running or Clumping

Clumping grasses stay where planted. The overall plant width increases. However, a running grass sends runners through the ground to grow another grass plant. Sometimes this can be 6’ away. This is advantageous when using the grass as a groundcover. Clumping grasses can be divided if they become too large for the site

Color

Grasses are available in many colors, including variegated. Additionally, many grass colors change throughout the year. Blues, reds, greens, yellow and variegated work well in different situations. A gold or white hued grass can brighten a dark corner. A dark green grass may be a perfect backdrop for smaller colorful plants.

Growing Requirements

Sun, water, wind and soil requirements vary among grasses. Some require full sun; others grow best in the shade. And, of course, there are grasses for every range in between. The same is true for water, wind and soil requirements.

Before going to the garden center to purchase “a grass”, make a list of your requirements. You may want a short grass to line a walkway in full sun with sandy soil. Alternatively, you may need a grass to fill a dry and shady corner. Perhaps you would like to watch a grass clump emerge in the spring, grow to 6′ tall, change colors through the summer and harvest dry seed heads for an autumn arrangement. Choosing the correct grass ensures the beauty and enjoyment of your garden for years to come.

Beautiful additions to any landscape, Japanese Maples will look their best when given some protection during our hot, dry summers. As the weather becomes hotter and drier, your Japanese Maples may show signs of heat stress with the development of crispy leaf edges and/or leaf drop.

When planting a Japanese Maple, choose a location that receives morning sun only and has some protection from strong winds. Full afternoon sun and windy conditions will quickly stress plants and reduce leaf color.

Mulching will help to retain moisture and cool root zones. Apply 2-3 inches of mulch under your Japanese Maples, extending out to the drip line. Be sure to keep the mulch several inches away from the tree’s trunk to avoid fungus problems and crown rot.

Another way to keep your Japanese Maples looking their best is to use an anti-transpirant to helps to minimize moisture loss from leaves. The best time to apply an anti-transpirant is in early summer when Japanese Maples are in peak condition, before they start showing signs of suffering from heat stress. Make your applications early the day or on an overcast day to avoid leaf burn. Apply monthly through the hottest part of the year and your beautiful trees will look gorgeous heading into the fall season.

The Flower Carpet Rose is a disease resistant low growing shrub which requires none of the usual care that other roses do. Not only does it produce thousands of blossoms over the growing season but it is virtually carefree. Deadheading, pruning, spraying and constant feeding are all unnecessary to keep these plants looking their best, although deep watering is suggested for new plantings. Once established, Flower Carpet Roses can become quite drought tolerant.

Flower Carpet Roses can be used in a variety of ways in the home garden. These plants are wonderful for foundation plantings, for covering sloping banks, to line a walkway or driveway, in large containers or simply mixed in among other flowers in perennial borders. The Flower Carpet Rose can go anywhere and still look spectacular.

Flower Carpet roses are America’s #1 ground cover rose and can flower for up to 10 months (depending upon climate). Masses of blooms and rich glossy green foliage adorn this full, rounded shrub. No fancy pruning is required to keep these beauties looking great. Just cut back with shears to 1/3 size in early spring to keep them in shape. With the best disease resistance of all roses, Flower Carpet Roses are proving to be the best garden and landscape roses ever.

Flower Carpet Roses are every gardener’s dream – virtually carefree plants that produce masses of colorful flowers throughout the growing season. Who could ask for more?